Weather report: Mix of south west swell and uptick in northwest wind swell keeps surf generally optimal. Sea breeze is putting some texture/bump on the water and even choppy for the more exposed breaks. Surf quality is decent.
YES! I caught my first wave.
Great sunrise this time.
Dann was awesome! First met him at Epicurrence where he taught us how to surf.
He always has his camera with him!!!!!!!
Epic times. Dann made sure the sharks didn’t eat us. He also let me try his board which was fun but impossible to surf.
First off, I never thought I would eve surf Mavericks. Sharks. Huge surf. It’s terrifying. But I got my big foamie out and paddle out for a mile. Kelly pushed me into my first wave. Hung ten for a bit, then gently dove off before diving had first in to the rocks. What an amazing experience it was. I can’t wait to go back. Hopefully we run into some more wild life.
